by Arthur and Anneliese Krieger

We are among that group of travelers who look for and enjoy small ships with a correspondingly small number of passengers.  We took the Americana, a container ship, when its route went from New Orleans to Buenos Aires, and the Amazing Grace, the supply ship for the Windjammer Fleet on its rounds from Kingston in the Bahamas to Trinidad and back.  Both these trips were booked through TravLtips which had the best rates.  And, being sailing enthusiasts, we looked forward to sailing across the ocean on the Star Clipper.  We were pleasantly surprised to meet two couples on the Star Clipper who were also passengers on the Americana.

After flying from JFK airport to Nice, we were met by the Star Clipper van on the morning of October 3rd, and had a scenic drive to Cannes.  Leaving our luggage with a Star Clipper representative at the dock, we strolled the narrow streets of the Cannes waterfront, had lunch at a sidewalk cafe and wandered through an outdoor flea market, waiting until 4:00 p.m. when we took a launch to the ship, which was anchored out in the harbor.  The launch ride afforded us a good look at the fabulous yachts riding at anchor or tied to the docks, an indication of the good life of the rich and famous.

We found our luggage outside our stateroom-which was roomy by cruise ship comparisons-with a queen size bed, night table, large porthole, three tall closets with mirrored doors, marble bathroom with shower, large mirrors, hair dryer, mirrored cabinet, narrow writing desk with storage below, a moveable stool, and storage drawers under the bed and the corner chair.  A TV on a shelf showed several-days-old news of America, Britain and Germany, with movies played through the ship's VCR in English and German.  A radio with a selection of two music stations and a satellite telephone were in each room.  There is a control for the air-conditioning in each room.

The interior of the ship gives one the impression of sailing on a luxury private yacht of bygone days-the library, dining room and lounge, all air-conditioned, have comfortable seating and are tastefully decorated with framed prints of sailing ships and racing yachts, with brass wall sconces for lighting and turned wood moldings.  It is elegant without being opulent.  However, while the finish speaks of grace and luxury, beneath the skin the Star Clipper was built to the highest Lloyd's registry standards, being awarded the ultimate quality rating:  100 A1 Plus, with watertight compartments and magnetic doors.

Built in 1992 in Belgium, the Star Clipper is a meld of modern technology in ship building and traditional sail plan.  At 360', this four-masted staysail barkentine is the largest clipper ship ever built.  The tallest mast is 226', and with a 50' beam, 18.5' draft, 3,025 gross tons, 200 tons lead ballast, she is a large ship by any reckoning.  Sixteen sails totaling 36,000 square feet, and a 12-cylinder 1,360 hp diesel provide the propulsion.  This is a genuine sail vessel with wind as the prime mover, but the engine is used when entering or leaving a harbor, when the wind is light or when the ship has to head directly into the wind.

We left Cannes close to midnight on October 3, sailed all day October 4 and arrived in Mahon on the island of Menorca the morning of October 5.  As on all cruise ships, bus tours were available.  However, we choose to find local transportation and make our own way around.

As we left the dock in the evening, the staysails were raised, but on leaving the harbor we were heading into the wind, so the sails came down and we were under power through a chilly, rainy night.  Our next stop on October 6 was Palma de Mallorca, another Spanish island, where we went ashore to walk through the old town and along the docks with thousands of pleasure boats.  After dinner, a traditional dance troupe performed on board.

Our captain aboard the Star Clipper was Klaus Meuller.  Although German, he was fluent in English, lives in Scotland and plays the bagpipes.  He spoke to us every day we were at sea on early sailing history, the explorers and Vikings.  He exhorted us to be aware of our surroundings, the sea and sky and take it all in, as this was an experience to be
savored.

On October 7 we docked at the island of Ibiza, another European vacation spot where we took a bus and walked around, taking in the sights.  October 8 found us under sail-the flying, outer and inner jibs on the bowsprit, the upper and lower square sails and the four staysails.  We were sailing briskly at nine knots.  Later that day when the wind slowed down, those who wanted to climbed the ratlines to the first platform on the foremast, wearing a safety harness.

Our next stop was Malaga on October 9.  Some passengers departed, others came aboard.  We went ashore and walked the promenades and boulevards and narrow streets to the Alcabaza, a Moorish palace from the 11th century and Castillo de Gibralfaro, built by the Phoenicians, found a recently excavated Roman amphitheater and then to be more up-to-date, we found  Picasso's birthplace.  The stores close for siesta and at 5:00 p.m., when the weather is comfortably cool, they open again and everybody is out.  The aroma of roasting chestnuts mingles with the smell of scooter exhaust.  A flamenco dance troupe performed on board that evening.

On October 10th we sailed past Gibraltar in the chilly morning, then after breakfast another lifeboat drill.  The captain spoke and introduced the crew.  We helped tail the lines as all five square sails were up along with the four staysails and one large fisherman sail.  We were sailing fast in a following sea and enjoyed the sun as the day warmed up.  The athletic team led in a fitness class at 4:30 p.m., as they did every day and after dinner the crew gave a fashion show of the merchandise available in the sloop shop.
Sunday October 11, the captain conducted a short Sunday Service by playing "Amazing Grace" on the bagpipes and spoke of us being one family on the sea.  The passengers were a mixed group of Americans, English, Germans, Canadians and French. Many enjoyed a piano concert of classical and semi-classical selections in the lounge before lunch.  The ship heeled slightly as we sailed along.

Monday, October 12.  Celestial navigation classes are held from 9:00 to 10:00 a.m., then the captain's talk,  followed by a lecture on clipper ship sailing by Captain Roger Ghys.  He is a retired sailing ship captain from Belgium who commanded sailing ships when he was 25 years old, and sailed around Cape Horn many times.  Now at 75 years, he exercised one hour every day because "a sailing ship captain needs to be strong."  He was captain of the training ship Mercator, and is honorary captain of Star Clippers, a member of the Belgian Royal Marine Academy and International Secretary of the Cape Horniers, made up by captains who sailed around Cape Horn.  He also authored a book Sailing a Square Rigger and had many stories to tell of his adventures at sea.

After lunch, a Russian crew member showed us knot tying.  He was also the sailmaker and was frequently on deck with his sewing machine repairing sails, with the ship's parrot, Captain Murphy, perched on his shoulder.

The food on the ship was excellent, with a wide array of fruit, smoked fish, hot and cold cereal, eggs, bacon, sausages, hot cakes, and made-to-order omelets for breakfast which was buffet style.  Lunch was also buffet with a wide variety to choose from.  Dinner was served from menu selections.  Dress code was casual, no jackets, ties or evening dress.

We docked at Madeira, 900 km southwest of Portugal, on Tuesday, October 13.  We went ashore, hired a cab and drove to the mountain top and fishing villages.  After lunch on the ship, we walked to Funchal, a busy city with parks, trees, and flowers.  We were surprised to find high-rise hotels and condominiums on these small islands, very European in flavor.

At sea Wednesday October 14.  Attended navigation class, Captain Klaus' talk and Captain Ghys' talk on sailing clipper ships.  We practiced with the sextant and toured the engine room.

There are plenty of deck chairs to stretch out on with a book to take the literary nap, or just look up at the sails pulling us along.  The ship's engine and generators are so quiet and free of vibration that the only sound heard is the ship sliding through the water.
Thursday morning October 15 found us at Las Palmas, Canaria.  We took a bus to old town for 125 pesetas (93 cents), toured the museum and old narrow streets.  After lunch we walked to the city for shopping.  Docked nearby was the Kruzenstern, a four-masted sailing ship built in Germany in 1926 and given as reparation to the USSR after WWII, and is now a merchant marine training ship for Russian cadets.  (Similarly, the Eagle was a German ship given to the US and is now the US Coast Guard training ship.)  We went aboard the Kruzenstern and spoke with a few of the cadets, who later toured our ship during dinner to warm applause from the passengers.

We left port at 10:00 p.m. and had a "Leaving Europe" party on deck.  We have 114 passengers for the crossing to Antigua.  With the addition of more British passengers, we now have tea at 4:00 p.m. along with breakfast, lunch and dinner, snacks at 5:00 p.m. and again at midnight.  Coffee and tea are available at all hours and a continental breakfast is set at 6:00 a.m. for the early risers.

Another lifeboat drill was held on Friday October 16, due to new passengers aboard.  After talks, classes and lectures, there was plenty of time for relaxing on deck as the weather got warmer.  Sailing in the trade winds at five knots was pure pleasure.  The sails held the ship steady so there was no pitching or rolling from side to side, just the easy movement through the sea.  Flying fish broke through the surface and flew amazing distances before disappearing in the sea.  On Saturday October 17 we spotted a school of dolphins which swam over to the ship to gambol in the bow wave.

Another devotional was held on Sunday October 18 with Captain Klaus playing "Amazing Grace" on the bagpipes which was new to those who boarded in the Canary Islands.  One of the passengers showed slides of her voyage in a small sailboat to Pitcairn Island and around the world with her husband and three children.  Another couple, in their eighties, sailed their 37-foot sailboat from San Diego to New Zealand twenty years ago.  Many of the passengers were sailors like us, who were aboard for the experience of sailing the ocean, something we would not attempt in our 35-foot sailboat.

October 19, another day at sea.  Pirate Night inspired passengers to dress in imaginative costumes-great fun with a barbecue on deck.  The following day the sea and wind were calm, so the ship stopped, the gangway was lowered and passengers swam in the ocean.  Overboard drill was conducted for the crew who, with life jackets on, jumped from the deck 25 feet to the water, then climbed aboard.

On Wednesday, October 21, passengers were invited to help raise sails.  Usually the crew uses pedestal-mounted electric winches, so one man can raise the heavy sails.  Captain Ghys led in a sea chanty as a long line of passengers heaved on the lines the old-fashioned way.  We were invited to steer the ship and hold it to a compass course-not as easy as it looks.  Instruments outside the chart house show wind direction and speed, as well as the ship's speed.  By now we were all experts and like old salts we would check the instruments and set of the sails and advise the deck officers who took it in good humor.  The chart house was open and we could view the weather fax, radar, and other modern electronics.

By Thursday, October 22 we were mid ocean and on Friday October 23 all passengers were summoned to the Bridge Deck where King Neptune in full regalia anointed those who were crossing the ocean under sail for the first time with a dollop of sea water.  Saturday, October 24, was another good day of sailing.  We are "wearing ship"-on port tack one day and starboard tack the next-so the wind is at the best angle for sailing.

October 25, there was a Sunday devotional, piano concert and after lunch skeet shooting from the aft deck.  A toga party followed dinner with bedsheets, tablecloths and bed spreads the favored costume.  On Monday, October 26th, we ventured out onto the bowsprit and lowered ourselves to the net below, and after getting over the initial fear of falling through, relaxed and looked up at the sails pulling us along, watching the bow cut through the water with the sound of ocean waves breaking on shore.  On Tuesday, there was more mast climbing, and we availed ourselves of the ship's two swimming pools, which although small, were delightfully refreshing during the heat of the day.

Wednesday, October 28th-all sails up and making 12 knots under sail alone!  When the angle of heel reached 10°, the sound of crashing silverware and plates came from the galley, but we were all on deck reveling in the speed and the foaming bow wave as we sailed like a true clipper ship.  The captain ordered sails reduced so lunch could be served in comfort.  During these warm nights at sea we would spend some time on deck, where in the clear mid-ocean sky Jupiter and Venus shone brightly, along with the stars and milky way.  The moon lit a pathway across the ocean illuminating the sails on our ship.

After a day of sailing, land was in sight on October 30th.  The ship's launches were lowered so we could take pictures of the ship with all sails set.  We sailed around Antigua and docked early Saturday morning October 31.  We said our good-byes and took a van to the airport.  Back to reality after a memorable voyage.  For those who thrill to sailing on a true clipper ship, or want a smooth, comfortable cruise on a small ship, the Star Clipper has it all.

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