You can follow in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark and experience the Pacific
Northwest on an authentic sternwheeler -- American
West Steamboat Company's
Queen of the West.
Queen of the West runs week-long cruises roundtrip from Portland, Oregon,
traveling on the Columbia River through numerous
dams and locks, and with many
shore excursions. If you are a natural history buff, geology lover, or Lewis and
Clark fan, this cruise
is packed with activities for you. It is also a great
cruise for museum lovers and those looking to relax on a slow-paced riverboat
cruise.
Excursions are included in the cruise fare and include a long list of
destinations and activities: Columbia River Gorge, Multnomah
Falls, the
Pendleton Rodeo, Umatilla Indian dance performance, Mt. Ste. Helen’s, wine
tasting at Pacific Northwest wineries,
Columbia River Maritime Museum, and a jet
boat ride through Hell’s Canyon. Museums, cultural centers, and historical
locations
are daily staples of this cruise. Most excursions are by bus.
The paddleboat has 72 cabins and can carry 160 passengers and entertain them
in four main gathering rooms: Columbia River
Showroom, Paddlewheel Lounge,
Calliope Bar and Grille, and the Lewis and Clark Dining Room. It is decorated to
replicate the
luxury sternwheelers of the 19th century, and houses a gallery of
historic posters and photographs. All cabins are outside and
have a picture
window and private bath. Many have private verandahs. Most have twin beds, two
bureaus, an armoire closet, desk,
TV, VCR. Two-room suites are also available.
Meals on the Queen are served as single seating in the dining room. Seating
is not assigned, and, as most things on the Queen,
tend to be casual and informal. A meat, vegetarian, and seafood option are
offered at each lunch and dinner. Half-portions are
offered and passengers seemed to greatly appreciate this option.
On the cruise that I took on the Queen with my grandmother, all of the
excursions were included in the cruise fare. The Queen of the
West’s itinerary
is packed with excursions, at least two every day by bus to different
historical, geological, or natural attractions.
There were 50 crewmembers and the all-American officers, wait staff, bartenders,
chefs, housekeepers, and engineers worked hard
to ensure that every detail of our cruise was cared for. Most of the crew was
from Pacific Northwest states; many had been living or
working on the Columbia River for years. Passengers were from all over the
United States and abroad. Most were in their 50’s and
older; many were celebrating anniversaries. Only two families were aboard with
teenagers.
The seven-night cruise that I took, called the Three Great Rivers Cruise,
ranges in price from $1,195 in the off-season for a value
stateroom to $4,845
during the peak season of summer for an Owner’s Suite.
Day One -Portland, Oregon
Queen of the West docks at the Doubletree Hotel at Jantzen Beach, just north of
Portland. Greeted by a mustached magician
shuffling a deck of cards in the style
of an Old West card player, we checked at the lounge of the Doubletree where
there was snack
food, a Dixieland band, and sing-alongs.
Queen of the West has four levels; the top deck has an enclosed patio area
and numerous rocking and lounge chairs. We went up
to the top deck around
4:30and enjoyed our cruise down the Columbia River and into the Willamette
River, leading us to the heart of
downtown Portland. The historian talked over
the loudspeaker system about the area that we passed through on our way to
Portland and he was available for questions about the Columbia River’s history,
biology, and river lore.
Our cruise through the Portland area took us under bridges and past some
beautiful waterfront mansions and houseboats. The
weather on the top deck was
perfect: sunny, mid-70’s, and a slight breeze. It was a beautiful night to be on
a riverboat.
Cocktail hour was at 6:00 pm. Dinner was served at 7:00. The dining room is on
the first deck and has large windows just above the
water line, allowing a great
view of the river as we eat.
Tonight, I had Pacific Coast clam chowder, Oregon coast salmon with rainbow
orzo and a bittersweet chocolate torte for dessert. I
found my half-portion of
salmon to be the ideal amount of food.
After dinner, we moved to the showroom to listen to Pat O’Neal’s Dixieland
Jazz Band. The showroom has chandeliers,
velvet-covered chairs, and a hardwood
dance floor. Every night a different band or performer is brought onboard the
boat, and in
the tradition of old, the performers are dropped off down river
after their performance.
After the show, we returned to our cabin to relax after a long day of
traveling. Our cabin is located just in front of the large
paddlewheel on the
stern of the boat. The whoosh-whoosh sound of the wheel lulled us to sleep.
Day Two -Hood River, Oregon
Mornings
come early on the Queen, with breakfast served at 7:00 and excursions leaving by
7:45. I woke up to an announcement for breakfast followed by a talk over the
loudspeaker by
our historian about the town we docked at during the night. Hood
River is known as the
windsurfing capital of the world. I had breakfast up on
the top deck at the Calliope Grille. The
Calliope has snacks and beverages
available 24 hours a day. I sat in a rocking chair drinking
coffee and watched
the sun rise high over the river. My grandmother went to the more formal
breakfast downstairs and enjoyed eggs, ham, toast, and country potatoes.
A
non-denominational church
service was held in the Paddlewheel
lounge for
passengers wishing to go
to a service as today is Sunday.
After the service, we
went by bus to
the Columbia Gorge Discovery
Center. The driver regaled us with
stories about the area and its history
as we drove along the river. The
landscape has changed significantly.
No longer in the lush tree-lined
mountains
of the coastal area, this
region of the Dalles and Hood River is much less green
and significantly
drier. We spent an hour at the museum and then stopped at
Rowena Crest
for a scenic overlook of the Columbia River Gorge. We had lunch and
watched windsurfers and kite-boarders whiz past the dining
room windows.
After
lunch we docked in Stevenson, Washington and headed to
Bonneville Dam where we
listened to a ranger give a talk about salmon
migration. We had a short time to
explore the Dam facilities and salmon fish
ladders. I sat in a rose garden and
watched the waters churn below
Bonneville Lock. From there, we headed to Multnomah Falls, one of he
largest waterfalls in the Pacific Northwest, and on
this sunny warm day,
very crowded. We had an hour at the Falls which did not
give me enough
time to hike up to the mouth of the Multnomah. My grandmother
stayed at
the base of the falls, not interested in climbing the numerous steps
to get to
the bridge overlook. Our return route to the boat took us past other
beautiful waterfalls and scenic views of the Columbia River and Gorge.
Unfortunately, there is not time to stop at any of these less crowded
waterfalls.
My dinner tonight was pear salad, Dungeness crab cakes, strawberry
shortcake
and a glass of Oregon Pinot Gris. The wine list aboard the Queen highlights
Pacific Northwest wines. Tonight’s
entertainment was by a female trio performing
1940’s era songs. Immediately following the show, the Queen entered one of the
many locks that we will be passing through on the Columbia River. I watched from
the top deck as the deckhands tied the boat up
to the side of the lock, the
gates closed behind us, and slowly the water level rose. It only took about 15
minutes for the water level
in the lock to raise 90 feet and level us with the
river above.
Day 3 -Pendleton, Oregon
This morning we woke up and found a river otter keeping us company. Then as We
left a lock, we passed a large Osprey nest with
an Osprey in it and a boat
designated to carry juvenile salmon downriver. The wildlife along and in the
Columbia River is diverse
and abundant.
Our
morning excursion was to the Pendleton Rodeo grounds where we watched a rodeo
performance and sheepdog herding demonstration. After that, we drove to the Tamasklist Cultural
Center on the Umatilla Indian reservation. At the Cultural
Center, we had a buffet style lunch and
walked through the Native American
museum with information about the history of the Umatilla,
Cayuse, and Walla
Walla Indians and their relationship to American pioneers. After a dance
performance put by on members of the reservation, we again loaded the buses and
drove an hour
back to the boat.
Dinner choices for the evening where between halibut, steak, or manicotti.
Entertainment was a
guitar duo featuring classic country songs and cowboy tunes.
After the main show ends, a pianist
plays piano in the Paddlewheel Lounge every
evening, but most passengers head to their cabins
immediately following the
evening’s main entertainment.
Day Four -Snake River, Idaho
Today we took a jet boat trip up Hells Canyon. We heard a talk from a Nez Perce
Indian on the
traditions and stories of his people, then were met at the dock by
two large, covered jet boats. Each
held 50 to 60 people and, being totally
enclosed, was not the wet and wild ride that some had
expected and others
feared. Our jet boat captain was informative about Hells Canyon and the
Snake
River and answered all the questions thrown at him while driving 30 miles per
hour through
shallow rapids. We spent three hours on the boat and went through
interesting country, barren
and geologically diverse. We stopped briefly along
the shore where Indian petroglyphs remain and then continued to our
destination,
Heller Bar Lodge, and had snacks before loading the buses to head back to the
boat.
It was our first afternoon to be underway on the river and I chose to spend
my afternoon on the top deck, enjoying the landscape
and getting to know my
fellow passengers. The scenery is beautiful, with basalt rock lining the river
and wheat fields covering the
hills.
We ate dinner tonight with two couples from Pennsylvania and we laughed our
way heartily through the meal. Tonight’s show was
a magic show with card tricks
and slapstick magic.
I have been reading and writing on the top deck each evening. Tonight, the
moon was full and enormous over the river. There were
no city or town lights to
compete with its glow, on either side of the river. This trip has certainly
given me a new appreciation for the
vastness of the West and what the early
settlers must have endured in crossing this country before finally arriving at
the Pacific
Ocean.
Day Five -- The Dalles, Oregon and John Locks and Dams
Today we were scheduled to spend most of our day aboard cruising the river.
Morning activity offerings included covered wagon
races, a movie, a talk by the
historian on Lewis and Clark. tours of the pilot house and galley, talks with
the Captain and head chef,
and a wine tasting of Northwest wine offerings. Our
wine tasting became a complimentary cocktail hour when the ship experienced a
mechanical problem. A back-up hydraulic pump stopped working and our itinerary
was changed for the day based on Coast Guard
recommendations.
We spent a few hours tied up alongside a dam and then got approval to dock
near Maryhill Museum. By the time we arrived at
Maryhill, the museum should have
been closed, but they stayed open so we could see their collection of artwork,
including unique
chess sets, August Rodine sculpture, and Native American art.
Day Six -Mt. St. Helene’s
This
morning we awoke to the boat moving downriver with a tugboat following in our
wake
in case we had any further mechanical problems. The Captain is trying to
make up for lost
time and hopes to maintain the rest of our itinerary. The
morning’s activities included bingo
and a talk by our historian. We have been
cruising back west since going to the Snake River,
and are now back in more
stereotypical Northwest scenery. The river cuts through
mountains
covered in pines.
After lunch, we boarded the buses to drive to Mt. Ste. Helene’s, an hour and
a half bus trip
each way. The driver told tales about the volcano’s explosion,
and the scenery that we
passed through was incredible. We stopped at one of Mt.
Ste. Helene’s Visitor’s centers and
were left to explore the museum which was
located on the edge of a ravine, with an incredible
view of Mt. Ste. Helene. A
park ranger talked about the explosion, destruction, and
subsequent bloom of new
wildlife and flora in the area. If given the time, I would have
eagerly hiked
the trails surrounding the Visitor’s Center. Unfortunately, our time was too
short. On our bus ride back to the boat, we watched a video on the explosion and
the impact
it made on the communities surrounding Mt. Ste. Helene’s. We’ve seen
other videos on the
bus this week, but this one was by far the best, with lots
of documentary footage and
firsthand accounts of survivors. I choose the
vegetarian option for dinner this evening:
stuffed green peppers.
In the showroom it was Big Band Night, with music performed from the 1930’s,
40’s, and 50’s, and a passenger variety show. The
social atmosphere aboard the
Queen has really allowed people to get to know each other and the passenger
variety show was a
great crowd pleaser. The showstopper came in the form of
John, a harmonica player in his mid-80’s, who has spent most of the trip
making
fellow passengers laugh.
Day Seven - Astoria, Oregon
We were still docked when we got up, and because of continued repairs, our day’s
itinerary was affected. The planned trip to the
coastal town of Cannon Beach was
canceled, and instead, we spent the day traveling by bus to the river town of
Astoria and then
to Fort Clapstop of Lewis and Clark fame. Astoria is located at
the mouth of the Columbia River to the Pacific Ocean and is known
as the
graveyard of the sea. It is a beautiful town with lots of nautical influence.
Our first stop was the Columbia River Maritime Museum, located on the river,
and with exhibits on fishing, Coast Guard, nautical
history, and the commercial
industry of tug boats. I was particularly interested in the Coast Guard exhibit,
having a background in
search and rescue, and was thrilled to see a real Coast
Guard 44-foot rescue boat designed to roll 360 degrees through heavy seas. I
learned a great deal from this museum and really enjoyed visiting it. We left
the museum and took a driving tour of some of the
historic homes in Astoria.
Built onto the side of the hill leading down to the river, the homes are
Victorian, many built in the early
19th century.
After lunch, we went to Fort Clapstop, Lewis and Clark’s camp after reaching
the Pacific coast. We toured the small fort and had
enough time to walk down the
trail to where Lewis and Clark landed their boats from the Columbia River. Fort Clapstop is beautiful
and buried deep in the Northwest forest. Back at the
Queen, our final night was like the 4th of July. The staff wore red, white, and
blue vests and bowties and the dining room featured a blue dolphin
ice-sculpture. The Captain hosted cocktail hour and dinner was
surf and turf ...
lobster, steak, champagne, and a white chocolate mousse served in a delicate
pastry shaped like a swan. At the
show for the night a singer sang a medley of
military theme songs. Many of the passengers were military veterans and the
singer
had them stand and be recognized. The evening was an appropriate
conclusion to this riverboat cruise focused so greatly on the
development of the
United States and the beauty and personality of the Western frontier. We went to
bed humming patriotic tunes.
Day Eight- Debarkation
We had an early breakfast and the Queen was docked at the Doubletree by 7:45am.
The staff lined up on the dock to say goodbye
to each passenger. We had our
luggage and were ready to head back to the real world by 8:30am, an
incredibly efficient debarking.