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WINDJAMMER CRUISING IN MAINE!

                                                                                         by Shannon Terry and Bob Linde

You wake up under warm blankets, cradled by the cozy cabin and the slight sway from lapping waves, to the scent of fresh coffee, muffins, and the wood stove that made them, mixed with the crisp, salt air of early morning. The gulls caw and the first rays of light greet you as you climb on deck, stretch, and grab a cup of joe. You are just in time to help hoist the sails, to the cries of “2! . . . 6! . . . heave!  2! . . . 6! . . . heave!” and the clamor of the raising anchor. It’s time to leave harbor and discover your day at the whims of the winds.

This is no Disney cruise, but if you like the sound of earning the title ‘old salt’, then sailing on a 125- year-old traditional two-masted schooner of the Maine Windjammer Fleet is a fine choice. 

 

If you want a unique change from luxury cruising or some plain, lazy R & R, a three to seven-day sail on the Grace Bailey will be just what you are seeking.  Although all passengers are welcome to join in the chores aboard this wooden piece of history, this is not expected and there is no pressure. You are equally as welcome to sit and observe and marvel at the days gone by when this was the way of life for many a seaman. 

 In fact, you will be well taken care of by the captain and crew.  A galley mistress like Anna serves up pre-breakfast snacks, a hot breakfast, mid-morning snack, a hot lunch, homemade afternoon treats, and delicious but simple dinners, served above or below deck, according to weather and passenger influence. You will not go hungry aboard any of the Windjammer fleet, although you may find you wish there was more space on deck to work off all those delicious meals such as stuffed haddock with fresh biscuits and veggies, chocolate cake and other home-made sweets, or the lobster and corn bake on a secluded beach at sunset.

You will have plenty of free time between feedings to relax with a book, nap on or below deck, play board games, or chat with fellow sailors and crew. Roy, a self-named “old, old salt” has been sailing with Windjammer at least twice a year for about 20 years. We were lucky to enjoy time shooting the breeze in a crisp wind hearing Roy’s tales, hardly any of them tall, often about Mattie, a frequent passenger whose many trips aboard started in 1939. Now in her 90s, she is an icon of the fleet, and old salts like Roy and the crew will gladly tell you about her days spent happily riding along, straddling the bowsprit.

 While enjoying your pastime of choice, keep at least an occasional eye or ear open for porpoise or osprey sightings, lonely lighthouses on islands, and slippery seals sliding silently toward shore. If you want something to do, you can always chop veggies, wash dishes, or learn to navigate the charts. Or you can relearn to do nothing at all . . . you may find, as we did, that simply gazing gently out at the horizon, alternated with losing focus and thoughts into the passing black waters, to be the best choice of entertainment and release. 

 You will receive a packet of information on ‘what to bring’ when you sign up for your cruise, including the invitation to BYOB, but not your hairdryer. There are no electrical outlets in cabins, the toilets are basic pump-flush, there are sinks in some cabins and shared hot showers are available.  Linens and washbasins are also provided. Ear plugs for the easily disturbed sleeper are recommended, and claustrophobic types may not be comfortable, as cabin wall thickness and sleeping quarter space are minimal. Think of it as comfortable camping at sea. Bring your binoculars, your sense of fun, and your sailor’s soul along for the adventure -- surely you will have a great old yarn to spin of your own by trip’s end. 

The Maine Windjammer Cruises fleet consists of three ships, the Grace Bailey being the oldest, built in 1882. They along with nine other vessels belong to the Maine Windjammer Association. The 12 vessels have cruises of varying lengths and frequently have theme cruises centered around local coastal events and special interests. You can learn more about these unique traditional sailing ships at  http://www.sailmainecoast.com , at http://www.mainewindjammercruises.com/index.html  or at http://smallshipcruises.com/mainewindjammercruises.shtml

After Sailing

When your sailing adventure comes to an end, consider planning extra days to discover both the quaint coastal towns of Maine and inland treasures. The port town of Camden and the marshmallow fluff down bed at the Windward House B & B there were a perfect post-sail haven for us.

The proprietors of the Windward House,  Kristen & Jesse Bifulco were a gracious and helpful couple keeping what was once a boarding house for lobsterman a welcome rest spot for old (or new) salts or for wedding parties.

Rooms are unique, comfortable, and tastefully decorated and come with menu-order breakfast in the dining room. We highly recommend the rum-soaked banana French toast – divine! Learn more about Windward House at http://www.windwardhouse.com

Camden

The charming port town of Camden is a short, easy stroll from the Windward House. A picturesque park overlooks the small harbor along the way. Enjoy a day or two of seafood and shopping here. We ate well at Cappy’s Chowder House on the main drag. Don’t miss the many local artist boutiques or the flower-filled bridge stroll over the river. To learn more about events in Camden visit http://www.camdenme.org

 Maple Hill Farm 

To make the most of our trip to Maine, we decided to spend a few days inland and explore the mountains as well. We stopped for a tour of Maple Hill Farm, a B & B as well as event and conference center that has led the way in the state campaign to go green. The first organization to earn the Environmental Leader Certification and Governor’s Award for Environmental Excellence, Maple Hill generates 1/3 of its power from solar panels and wind power. To get there take the 5-minute drive outside the artist enclave of Hollowell near Augusta.  http://www.maplebb.com/

Bethel

Our final destination was the mountain town of Bethel. www.bethelmaine.com   A confluence of healers, artists, dreamers and idealists have come here for over 100 years, and you can partake in any number of healing treatments here.  We stayed at the Gideon Hastings House http://www.gideonhastingshouse.com  and dined well in their upscale yet welcoming Italian restaurant.  Bethel also has other great eateries such as Cafe Dicocoa’s Market and Bakery as well as a vegan restaurant in town. If you have a chance to visit Mt. Mann Jewelers shop you can see some amazing gems and minerals that have been collected by Jim Mann. Although we didn’t get a chance to visit the local mines we understand it is a fascinating stop. www.mtmann.com

 

Getting There

The closest airports to Camden are in Rockland and Portland with airport limos available to Camden. We chose to rent a car at the airport in Portland and enjoy the beautiful drive along the Maine coastline. You’ll discover wonderful towns, local artists, seafood, and amazing vistas and photo opportunities. And you can take some time and drive into the mountains to enjoy the nature, changing fall colors or white-water rafting in this uncommon destination before you sail away.

 

                                                       



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